Discovering Ubon Ratchathani Province

The city of Ubon Ratchathani is one of the big four in Thailand’s northeast Isan region. It hosts a huge annual festival, has an airport, and several universities, all adding vibrancy alongside its old town and river. But what about the province of the same name? Here, I look back at some of the places I've been fortunate enough to discover.

Stunning Lake Sirindhorn

While I landed at Ubon Ratchathani Airport in June 2018 on an internal flight from Bangkok, I was soon on my way by train to Sisaket, ironically the place I would end up living five years later. Marrying someone from the area was always going to introduce me to places I'd never even heard of, and so it proved.

Before we were married, Taew took me to Sisaket a couple of times for extended stays so I could get used to the place and see what would be in store. It provided the chance to get out and about in the car a little further afield.

Chong Mek

The first trip took us to Chong Mek, the border crossing with Laos. This involved a drive through Warin Chamrap, the district south of the Mun River and Ubon city, which was much larger than I'd expected. The same could be said about the town of Phibun Mangsahan, further along the Mun.

Route 217 took us to the border, where there were several market stalls on either side of the road that served those waiting to enter Laos, including the many lorries carrying their cargo. It is less than an hour from Chong Mek to Pakse, a sizeable city in Laos.

Wat Sirindhorn Wararam Phu Phrao

Wat Sirindhorn Wararam Phu Phrao

Taew pointed to a right-hand turning on the road to Chong Mek. On the way back, we went along to Wat Sirindhorn Wararam Phu Phrao, a large temple on the top of a hill offering some magnificent views for miles around, into the adjoining country and down on Sirindhorn Dam and Reservoir.

The temple itself was pretty enough, but it was probably enhanced by its positioning, needing a walk up a slope to it and then the way it towers over the countryside. We obviously enjoyed it because we've since returned with friends and relatives as part of our travels around the province.

Sirindhorn Dam and Reservoir

This huge stretch of water provides water for the province and offers lots of beauty spots to stop off at. The main road runs around its banks, with many cafes and restaurants attracting customers from far and wide. 

One we would certainly recommend, and have stopped at with others, is AB Coffee Café, which has some pretty gardens and features, with views across the reservoir. Like all of Thailand, new establishments open and close regularly, so it’s worth checking before making concrete plans.

A family trip on a bank holiday saw us staying at one of the many small resorts dotted along the banks of Sirindhorn. They fit all types and budgets, with ours being at the lower end. While I’d go for something slightly more luxurious if we did it again, the view while drinking at night was fantastic. And it included a mookata, a Thai pork and vegetable barbecue, in the price, offering excellent value for money.

Dining and Fun by the Lake at Pattaya Noi

Pattaya in Ubon?

On that first trip, one place I certainly wasn't expecting to visit was somewhere called Pattaya. But sure enough, on the drive around the top end of the reservoir, going past Sirindhorn Dam Golf Course, which is now on my bucket list to have a round, having had it recommended by friends, we arrived at Pattaya Noi.

For anyone who’s suddenly started planning for a few days of heavy socialising, it’s best you read on. Pattaya Noi sits beside the reservoir, but that's where the similarities end. 

That’s not to say there isn’t fun to be had; only the Ubon version is very much aimed at families, predominantly Thai, with its several pontoons containing open-sided restaurants over the lake. There are plenty of activities for kids to keep them occupied, including water slides and water sports for those of all ages.

Two Colour River Viewpoint

Two Colour River Viewpoint

When we had a two-night stop in the city, described in “Discovering Food, Drink & Nightlife in Ubon”, we had the opportunity with our friends Ben and Noi to visit where the Mekong and Mun Rivers join in the furthest corner of the province. 

The Two-Colour River Viewpoint is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ubon Ratchathani. Unfortunately, we visited during the wrong season. During the rainy months, the contrast between the rivers is much more pronounced. Locals call the phenomenon Kong Si Poon Mun Si Kham.

The village of Khong Chiam is the place to head, with its temple and headland providing excellent views across the confluence of the rivers. There are allegedly some illicit boat trips over to Laos, while pleasure crafts are also available to take a ride.

We returned eighteen months later with another couple and stayed in one of the hotels on the waterfront. This was well worth the 1,500 baht (£33) for a quality room and view to match. We found it ideal, dining on fresh seafood in the restaurant and then enjoying the sunset on the veranda while sipping gin and tonics.

Pha Taem National Park

Pha Taem National Park

As we were travelling for the day with Ben and Noi and knew we could relax back in the city for the evening, we continued our trip along the Mekong to Pha Taem National Park.

With Phou Xieng Thong National Protected Area in Laos on the opposite side of the river, the park high above the water is another place to enjoy some dramatic landscape. The car park on our visit was difficult to work out where it started and ended.

It was simply an area of rock, left as nature intended, and was more akin to a crazy golf course or something out of The Flintstones. I was very proud of my wife's handling of the steering wheel in such challenging conditions. The park is huge, covering 340 square kilometres, where plateaus and hills dominate.

We were by the visitors’ centre, which has a walkway down to see ancient prehistoric paintings of over 3,000 years old, lined up on the stone wall. Other carvings into the rock formed by using an erosion method were visible from the steep path, which had had staircases added to help accessibility.

Pha Taem National Park

Other Attractions

As described in “Experiencing the Nighttime Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival”, we found a fine attraction, Muansurn Cafe, which has plenty of activities for the young at heart on the main road to Sirindhorn.

Wat Nong Pa Phong, south of the city, is worth a look for those wanting to fill in some time, perhaps while waiting for the city bars to open later that afternoon! It's a spacious, modern Buddhist temple set within a peaceful forest. Remarkably, when I posted photos of our visit on Facebook, a friend of ours in Bangkok replied to say that’s where he trained as a voluntary monk.

My Conclusion

My visits to Ubon Ratchathani Province have shown me there's far more to the area than the city itself. From dramatic viewpoints and ancient rock paintings to relaxing lakeside cafés and peaceful riverside towns, it's a province that's well worth exploring if you have the time to venture beyond the airport and city centre.

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Thanks for reading.