Chanthaburi and Trat – The Gateway to Koh Chang

Koh Chang is a stunning island, attracting tens of thousands of tourists each year to its beautiful beaches and natural scenery. However, to reach the ferry to Koh Chang, you pass a couple of towns that are attractive in their own way. Here’s my insight into Chanthaburi and Trat.

Chanthaburi Cathedral

Break the Journey

You might want to see what I call proper Thailand rather than heading across the Gulf to Koh Chang. And why not? One of the country’s biggest appeals is its 77 provinces. They are all a little different, and each has its capital town or city. That’s why I wanted to visit Chanthaburi.

Ideally, I’d have visited and stayed over after watching football there, but a drive to Koh Chang with my wife, Taew, came first, followed by a stay with friends. I visited several years later to watch a game and spend the night, building on my previous experience and exploring new places. Trat was also a stopping-off point for the two of us the following year. Here’s what I can report.

Chanthaburi's Waterfront Community

Chanthaburi’s Popularity Explained 

Chanthaburi is popular with expats looking to explore somewhere not usually on Westerners’ lists. In many ways, it is a perfect place for those who want to avoid the hustle and bustle of some tourist destinations but still want things to do.

It has a beautiful coastline with hidden beaches. Homestays along the Chanthaburi River estuary offer wonderful sunset views and some of Thailand’s best freshly caught seafood. The province has mountains along the Cambodian border and the stunning Soi Dao golf resort an hour from Chanthaburi town.

South of Chanthaburi town lies the dramatic Phlio Waterfall National Park, ideal for exercise or to escape the heat. The National Maritime Museum displays Chanthaburi’s history and national significance. It is also a major player in Thailand’s jewellery and gems industry. I’ve been fortunate to have visited all these places.

My good lady enjoying one of Chanthaburi's unspoilt beaches

Why I enjoyed Chanthaburi

To me, Chanthaburi is a special place because of its narrow streets and traditional Waterfront Community. Sukhaphiban Road behind the river reminds me of York or Whitby’s old town, with chic independent shops, cafes, restaurants and a bar or two. It has temples, some with Chinese influence. 

Across the river stands the incredible Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, built by the French and Vietnamese. An evening spent in this part of town, perhaps wining and dining or enjoying craft beers at the Prachaniyom bar, has made my stays memorable.

My solo Thursday night walk to the centrally located football stadium, near Somdet Phra Chao Taksin Maharat Park, a lake, with bars and restaurants across the road was memorable, taking me through Namphu Market, with the central square and roads teeming with fresh and cooked food options. 

The sights, smells, and sounds were perfect in the tight streets as locals wove in and out on motorbikes, Chanthaburi’s most popular transport. The morning was similar, albeit quieter.
I would return and make the four-hour road journey from Bangkok to Chanthaburi in a heartbeat. An hour further down the road, I’m not sure.

Sunset on the Chanthaburi River Estuary

Trat

Trat town has roughly a third of Chanthaburi's population, though like most provinces, it has several towns of a few thousand. Therefore, it stands to reason that there aren’t the same activities or things to do.

We spent the night there one August, which, while out of season, might not make too much difference. That’s not to say it wasn’t pleasant enough. The Trat National Museum had the usual artefacts and was fine for half an hour. I took photos at the Provincial Stadium, but there wasn’t much else.

Quiet but Pleasant

Our room at the Baan Rim Nam Resort was good, with a lovely view next to the Bang Phra River. We explored from around 5 pm to see what we could find. 

I enjoyed Lao Leu Music & Restaurant, a typical open-fronted bar and eatery. It was a place where a group could have a good night, watching the world go by. It wasn’t so good being the only customers. Google Maps now marks it as permanently closed.

Sukhumvit Road was naturally busy enough with several street stalls. We might have caught Trat Street Food Market on a bad night, or maybe not? We wandered its adjacent streets, found food, bought some cans from 7-Eleven and headed home. Maybe the weekend was busier? Trat FC didn’t apply for a licence for the 2026-27 season, meaning one less activity in town.

Wat Jai Bridge

More than a Town

However, it’s wrong to judge a province solely on its capital. We have friends who live in Trat. It’s peaceful, with many beautiful beaches and views, and it offers excellent value for money. It also has an airport with a few flights a day to and from Bangkok. It’s undoubtedly suited to expats of a certain age.

Before we continued to Koh Chang, we had a nice boat ride at Ban Nam Chiao, which flows into the ocean. Wat Jai Bridge wasn’t quite the standout feature we thought, but we enjoyed the stunning scenery all the way to the bay, looking across the island.

My return to Chanthaburi is featured in this YouTube video

In Closing

Chanthaburi and Trat are both pleasant provincial towns, suited to those looking for relaxation and maybe solitude on a hidden beach. The scenery is superb, and Chanthaburi town is well worth a two-night stay as a stop-off for Koh Chang or a stand-alone visit.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.