Discovering Buriram

It’s astonishing, at least to me, just how many Thai cities generally go undiscovered by tourists. Some may argue that many are pretty much the same. However, I feel each has nuances, traditions, festivals and food worth visiting for. One city that has gone the extra mile to draw in Westerners is Buriram.

About Buriram

How has Buriram become well populated by expats and attracted tourists each year? Credit must go to local politician Newin Chidchob, who has transformed the province and city. He is a proud and powerful man. He has provided things worth seeing and made them easier to access. More of which later.

In the meantime, here is a quick Buriram background. It is in Thailand’s northeast region of Isan, about five hours by road from Bangkok. The province has a population of over 1.5 million, while its capital city of the same name has around 50,000 inhabitants.

Buriram has a strong Khmer historical link, as it is near the Cambodian border, while farming is its main industry. That was until tourism entered the equation, which takes us back to Khun Newin.

Buriram United

Because of football, I had become familiar with Buriram. In 2018, when I toured Isan, I stopped in the city for a couple of nights to meet up with Gary, an old friend from Scarborough. Like many expats, he had relocated to the city through a relationship and had become a supporter of the football club.

Buriram United FC is like no other club in Thailand. Newin owns them. He is a winner and wanted them to be the best. So, rather than messing about trying to get his team to the top through conventional means, he bought reigning champions PEA FC, based at the time in Ayutthaya, and moved them lock, stock and barrel to his own city, as permitted by the Thai FA. A sort of Wimbledon/MK Dons scenario, if you like.

They have the biggest stadium, highest attendances, the best training facilities and by far the biggest player budget. Coaches are moved if Newin is even slightly irritated. They completely dominate Thai football and have become something of a Marmite club.

Newin's Influence has Transformed a Sleepy City

Newin Chidchob

A big advantage Newin has is that his city has endless space and he doesn’t have to navigate too much red tape to get things done. This is shown by the building of the Buriram International Circuit next to the football stadium and Buriram Castle. It stages a round of MotoGP every year and has countless other events on its track.

The MotoGP attracts thousands of visitors each year, who fill hotels, spend in bars and restaurants, and bring in millions of baht to the province. When the football team is playing, businesses also benefit as parts of the town enjoy the party.

To get people in and out, Buriram Airport continues to grow, with regular flights to and from Bangkok. Plans are afoot to make it international, as Newin wants Buriram to host Thailand’s first F1 Grand Prix, making it easier for those involved to arrive and get away. It is little wonder that the local population worships Newin.

Wat Klang Phra Aram Luang

My Previous Visits

As I mentioned, I visited the city and was impressed. It was relatively small but had plenty of food options and nightlife to cater for both Thais and foreigners. I returned to see Gary, along with Steve, also from Scarborough, and his good lady, Fah, who is originally from Nang Rong, a large town in the south of the province.

Gradually, I got to know the layout of the city, where to stay, where to go drinking, and which areas were worth walking around. It helped to have a kind local guide who ferried us around. Here are some of the highlights from previous visits.

I liked walking around the moat, with its bars and restaurants that we frequented. Wat Klang Phra Aram Luang is a stunning temple with Khmer influence. On one visit, while wandering around, we came across ladies offering outdoor massages, which I thought was nice.

Sang Rung Grand Resort must have been some hotel when it opened. It is beautifully designed and huge but has lain derelict since 2001. King Rama I Monument further along the same road is a fine landmark. For the other places worth mentioning, I’ll fast-forward to April 2013.

Back Again in April 2013

By now, I had become an Isan resident, married and living in Sisaket. Port FC, the Bangkok football team I support, were playing in Buriram, so it was about time I took Taew for an overnight stay and showed her why I always enjoyed visiting.

Gary, as ever, was most accommodating after we parked at his house. He took us to Khao Kradong Forest Park and its extinct volcano. I’d been before, but it was Taew’s first time. The view across the city was stunning, and the walk and footbridges across the crevasse were well worth seeing.

One of Buriram’s great features is the number of restaurants on the outskirts of the city, which provide a rural feel while remaining comfortable. Not for the last time, we went for lunch to one of them with Gary’s dear old mum.

I was delighted with the outcome of the football match as my team won, before we enjoyed the first of many nights out in the city. On this occasion, we went to a rooftop bar on the top of a hotel near the moat, an expat bar where the owner was always pleased to see me return, and then we headed somewhere near the bus station, which sold a great range of beers at very fair prices.

Our night concluded with a visit to Tawandang Mahason, an Isan institution. The company has branches in many cities in the region, all of which provide fun and entertainment until the early hours. With free admission and lots of revellers, it’s the place to go.

Tawandang Mahason, Buriram

Further Visits

Taew obviously left Buriram with a similar opinion to mine, as we have returned many times since. We have taken friends and met others there. All of whom agree that it’s the nearest thing to attending a football match in Europe and that the nightlife and choice of restaurants are as good as any Thai provincial city.

As with the rest of Thailand, bars and restaurants close and are replaced by new enterprises. Again, local knowledge is invaluable to keep abreast of developments. The area around the bus station provides food and drink options, while the entertainment zone around Tawandang is often vibrant, with a multitude of bars and clubs.

There are great hotel options in the 600 THB (£14) range, but be warned. Prices spiral for the MotoGP weekend. Booking well in advance is necessary. Some attendees stay an hour away in Surin or Nang Rong.

To Conclude

I consider Buriram a hidden gem, and one of Thailand’s most underrated cities. It has top-quality sports in excellent arenas, decent places to stay, lots of food and drink options, great local nightlife, and enough sightseeing and creature comforts for any Westerner to enjoy a visit.

If you enjoyed this story, you may enjoy checking out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.