My First Songkran in Rural Isan
Most
visitors know Songkran for giant water fights and chaos in Thailand's tourist
hotspots. My first Songkran living in a rural Isaan village couldn't have been
more different, revealing a celebration built around family, tradition, music
and community.
What is Songkran?
Songkran. It’s a word that can polarise opinion among expats living in Thailand. For many visitors to the Land of Smiles in April, it becomes an unforgettable experience, while for those who live here, it can mean locking the doors until it’s over, or in some cases, even leaving the country.
Songkran is Thailand’s traditional New Year festival, celebrated every 13 April and famous worldwide for its huge water fights and lively street celebrations. Originally, Songkran was a deeply spiritual and family-focused occasion linked to Buddhist traditions, where people would visit temples, make merit, pour scented water over Buddha statues, and show respect to elders by gently pouring water over their hands for good luck and blessings.
Today, Songkran combines these important traditions with several days of nationwide celebrations, music, parties, parades, and water throwing in towns and cities across Thailand. The festival also marks the hottest time of year and symbolises washing away bad luck and starting the new year refreshed. Popular places such as Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and many towns across Isaan hold major Songkran events attracting both locals and tourists alike.
My Previous Experiences
Since visiting Thailand for the first time in 2004, I have been around when Songkran has taken place and have a mixed set of emotions. It can be tiring, confusing, confrontational, loud, wet, drunken, and emotionally draining. I’ve experienced all of the above.
In Pattaya for my first experience, I looked on open-mouthed as westerners with high-powered water guns aimed across the road at those riding motorbikes and scooters, coming close to causing carnage.
I’ve been snarled up in traffic, taking three hours to get across Phuket to our hotel. A later visit to Pattaya saw me failing to laugh too much when Thai locals threw buckets of water containing ice cubes at our open songthaew.
I’ve had a great day and night with my pals in Bangkok as we decided to embrace it full on, even buying something to fire water. I slipped down the steps of a takeaway in Phuket, one year in the water on ceramic tiles, injuring myself.
It will always be a testing time of year for me, as my father passed away on the 12th of April 2015 while I was in Thailand, having completed a cricket tournament in Chiang Mai. It took a couple of days to arrange a flight home, making for a very difficult Songkran as I tried to come to terms with the news.
Songkran as a Resident
In 2022, I was living in Minburi when my future wife and I were just good friends. I went to her restaurant bar and joined in the relatively modest festivities. The following year, we had moved to Sisaket, and I was ready to see how Songkran was celebrated in rural Isan. I was most pleasantly surprised.
It was always likely to be different in a village compared to a city, both in demographics and numbers attending. I was told that Sisaket city could be chaotic if fun, but that would have to wait. Taew’s younger sister, Puay, husband Bun, and their close family arrived from Minburi to make it a special occasion.
The early evening before Songkran was my first surprise, as we all headed to the local temple to make merit, returning after dark.
The grounds had been transformed, with a stage on the side of an open truck where dancers were performing along with a male and female singer.
Tables and chairs were set out, with food being placed on the tables, which had been made from the sum of the collections from residents of the village. Beer and whisky flowed freely, some provided by the village and some bought privately. It wasn’t long before we were up and dancing at the front.
Such shows and performers are regular features in the smaller towns and villages, being hired for special occasions. There are typically four female dancers of varying builds. However, their costumes are usually the same size, which occasionally creates some unintentionally amusing moments, as I'm sure many readers can imagine.
Parade Day
We were up early the following morning as several of the family got stuck in making breakfast for the hungry gathering. Around 8.30 am, the females, youngsters, and I headed towards the village and the noise, while the older males stayed at home.
We timed things perfectly to intercept a small double-decker vehicle coming from the temple to our junction as it continued its square route around the village. People came out to the roadside if they were not mobile enough to follow the procession. It was a wall of sound and happiness that surely not even the grumpiest of farang could begrudge.
An Irish gent, a little younger than me, was taking part, visiting the village of his partner. Aside from us, it was all Thai. Beers were being passed around to drink while we walked, danced, and in my case, filmed for my YouTube Channel. It was slow going, but that was no hardship being among such a heartwarming and friendly crowd. We eventually returned to Wat Ban Suan Kluai for more making of merit before going home.
The rest of the day was lazy as everyone ate and refreshed at will. Dam, Taew’s brother arrived with a couple of mates I’d met when they introduced me to frog fishing in the copse behind our home.
The Tradition of Songkran Remembered
It turned into a very sociable day, with many of us having a short nap before continuing. There was one last thing before the day was out. It was something that showed me how important families and elders are in Thailand.
My mother and father-in-law sat down, along with some of their siblings. In turn, we poured water over their hands, wished them good health and good luck, and offered a small cash gift. I cannot lie. I found it extremely emotional and beautiful at the same time.
Music soon followed, with some rongping (which Thais pronounce longping), as karaoke is known here, taking place, with most of us keen to show off our not-so-hidden talents.
Never Presume in Thailand
I think that the motto “Never Presume” should be emblazoned on the Thai national flag. Sure enough, the following couple of years were different but beautiful in their own way. Both featured males dredging the pond on our rice farm for fish, which were barbequed.
In later years, we went to a service where a family friend was building his own village temple a few miles away, followed by catching the parade. This was twelve months after half a dozen Thai friends arrived in a minibus and stayed for three nights, which inevitably led to a long party.
One April day was so hot that we had a very quiet but nice Songkran at the house, with the usual carrying on, while remembering its true meaning with the blessing ceremonies.
Get Out and Give It a Go
Those reading this and who want to enjoy it but are scared by previous experiences, I recommend heading to a provincial town or rural village away from holidaymakers, ideally with Thais you might know, so you get a true reflection of what can be a magnificent occasion.
My first Songkran in rural Isaan completely changed my perspective on Thailand's New Year. What I expected to be another few days of water fights became a celebration of family, friendship, respect and community—one that I now look forward to every year.
If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.
Thanks for reading.
What is Songkran?
Songkran. It’s a word that can polarise opinion among expats living in Thailand. For many visitors to the Land of Smiles in April, it becomes an unforgettable experience, while for those who live here, it can mean locking the doors until it’s over, or in some cases, even leaving the country.
Songkran is Thailand’s traditional New Year festival, celebrated every 13 April and famous worldwide for its huge water fights and lively street celebrations. Originally, Songkran was a deeply spiritual and family-focused occasion linked to Buddhist traditions, where people would visit temples, make merit, pour scented water over Buddha statues, and show respect to elders by gently pouring water over their hands for good luck and blessings.
Today, Songkran combines these important traditions with several days of nationwide celebrations, music, parties, parades, and water throwing in towns and cities across Thailand. The festival also marks the hottest time of year and symbolises washing away bad luck and starting the new year refreshed. Popular places such as Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya, and many towns across Isaan hold major Songkran events attracting both locals and tourists alike.
 |
| Village Songkran |
My Previous Experiences
Since visiting Thailand for the first time in 2004, I have been around when Songkran has taken place and have a mixed set of emotions. It can be tiring, confusing, confrontational, loud, wet, drunken, and emotionally draining. I’ve experienced all of the above.
In Pattaya for my first experience, I looked on open-mouthed as westerners with high-powered water guns aimed across the road at those riding motorbikes and scooters, coming close to causing carnage.
I’ve been snarled up in traffic, taking three hours to get across Phuket to our hotel. A later visit to Pattaya saw me failing to laugh too much when Thai locals threw buckets of water containing ice cubes at our open songthaew.
I’ve had a great day and night with my pals in Bangkok as we decided to embrace it full on, even buying something to fire water. I slipped down the steps of a takeaway in Phuket, one year in the water on ceramic tiles, injuring myself.
It will always be a testing time of year for me, as my father passed away on the 12th of April 2015 while I was in Thailand, having completed a cricket tournament in Chiang Mai. It took a couple of days to arrange a flight home, making for a very difficult Songkran as I tried to come to terms with the news.
Songkran Festivities on my YouTube Channel
Songkran as a Resident
In 2022, I was living in Minburi when my future wife and I were just good friends. I went to her restaurant bar and joined in the relatively modest festivities. The following year, we had moved to Sisaket, and I was ready to see how Songkran was celebrated in rural Isan. I was most pleasantly surprised.
It was always likely to be different in a village compared to a city, both in demographics and numbers attending. I was told that Sisaket city could be chaotic if fun, but that would have to wait. Taew’s younger sister, Puay, husband Bun, and their close family arrived from Minburi to make it a special occasion.
The early evening before Songkran was my first surprise, as we all headed to the local temple to make merit, returning after dark.
The grounds had been transformed, with a stage on the side of an open truck where dancers were performing along with a male and female singer.
Tables and chairs were set out, with food being placed on the tables, which had been made from the sum of the collections from residents of the village. Beer and whisky flowed freely, some provided by the village and some bought privately. It wasn’t long before we were up and dancing at the front.
Such shows and performers are regular features in the smaller towns and villages, being hired for special occasions. There are typically four female dancers of varying builds. However, their costumes are usually the same size, which occasionally creates some unintentionally amusing moments, as I'm sure many readers can imagine.
 |
| Songkran Eve Party at the Temple |
We were up early the following morning as several of the family got stuck in making breakfast for the hungry gathering. Around 8.30 am, the females, youngsters, and I headed towards the village and the noise, while the older males stayed at home.
We timed things perfectly to intercept a small double-decker vehicle coming from the temple to our junction as it continued its square route around the village. People came out to the roadside if they were not mobile enough to follow the procession. It was a wall of sound and happiness that surely not even the grumpiest of farang could begrudge.
An Irish gent, a little younger than me, was taking part, visiting the village of his partner. Aside from us, it was all Thai. Beers were being passed around to drink while we walked, danced, and in my case, filmed for my YouTube Channel. It was slow going, but that was no hardship being among such a heartwarming and friendly crowd. We eventually returned to Wat Ban Suan Kluai for more making of merit before going home.
The rest of the day was lazy as everyone ate and refreshed at will. Dam, Taew’s brother arrived with a couple of mates I’d met when they introduced me to frog fishing in the copse behind our home.
 |
| The Village Parade |
The Tradition of Songkran Remembered
It turned into a very sociable day, with many of us having a short nap before continuing. There was one last thing before the day was out. It was something that showed me how important families and elders are in Thailand.
My mother and father-in-law sat down, along with some of their siblings. In turn, we poured water over their hands, wished them good health and good luck, and offered a small cash gift. I cannot lie. I found it extremely emotional and beautiful at the same time.
Music soon followed, with some rongping (which Thais pronounce longping), as karaoke is known here, taking place, with most of us keen to show off our not-so-hidden talents.
Never Presume in Thailand
I think that the motto “Never Presume” should be emblazoned on the Thai national flag. Sure enough, the following couple of years were different but beautiful in their own way. Both featured males dredging the pond on our rice farm for fish, which were barbequed.
In later years, we went to a service where a family friend was building his own village temple a few miles away, followed by catching the parade. This was twelve months after half a dozen Thai friends arrived in a minibus and stayed for three nights, which inevitably led to a long party.
One April day was so hot that we had a very quiet but nice Songkran at the house, with the usual carrying on, while remembering its true meaning with the blessing ceremonies.
Get Out and Give It a Go
Those reading this and who want to enjoy it but are scared by previous experiences, I recommend heading to a provincial town or rural village away from holidaymakers, ideally with Thais you might know, so you get a true reflection of what can be a magnificent occasion.
My first Songkran in rural Isaan completely changed my perspective on Thailand's New Year. What I expected to be another few days of water fights became a celebration of family, friendship, respect and community—one that I now look forward to every year.
If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.
Thanks for reading.
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