Exploring Betong, Thailand – A Journey Through the Fascinating Deep South

Betong is one of Thailand's most fascinating destinations—yet many visitors have never even heard of it. Tucked away in the country's deep south near the Malaysian border, it combines spectacular mountain scenery, rich multicultural heritage, excellent food and an intriguing recent history. This is the story of our journey there.

 

I love discovering places with glowing reviews that I had previously never even heard of. That was the case when my wife and I joined her cousin, his wife, and son on an epic tour of Thailand straddling the 2025 New Year, from our home in Sisaket in the Northeast, travelling into Laos, before heading to the furthest point south of the country.

Our fellow tourists live in Hat Yai, the biggest city in the southern region, which is where we headed to see in the New Year after over a week on the road. It provided us with somewhere to gather ourselves, before a journey, going through several provinces, before reaching our destination of Betong.

The Road South

The original plan was for my good lady Taew, and me to head to the town by bus, until her cousin Q decided it was best to lead the operation and drive us while making some deliveries for his coffee business along the way.

I was aware that over the years, the southern provinces saw violence and bombings as religions and cultures clashed close to the Malaysian border. What I didn’t realise was that it was continuing, albeit slightly under the radar.

My comment that I might fancy going to watch football in Pattani in the future was met with incredulity by my good lady, so I settled for a stop at the stadium instead to take photos.

Q continued dropping off his goods at different stores in Yala before we headed onward. The number of police control points along the road as we left the city, along with many military establishments, certainly indicated that not all was as peaceful as I imagined.

More police stations than usual were a hint. It was with some relief to get on the open road for a while before entering yet another village with heightened security.

The Gang Arrives in Betong

Through the Mountains to Betong

Nodding off from time to time, I was oblivious to some of what was going on. What I did recognise were roads that were akin to the Chiang Mai to Pai route, which has 762 incredibly tight turns and twists along Route 1095 as it climbs the mountain. While being scenic, it is also treacherous, leading to accidents and loss of life each year. I have mates in that part of the world who make the journey once and then call it quits.

The Pattani–Betong Highway, or Route 410, was not far behind with tight turns and steep inclines. We stopped at Tok Ku Chae Bridge, which straddles Lake Bang Lang, to take some great photos. We pulled over again at the boundary of Betong for additional snaps.

In all honesty, it was good to get out of the car for a stretch and some fresh air. The Mitsubishi Pajero taking us along the way was roomy enough, but as a big bloke, it was necessary to be active every so often.

The journey had been a real test, mentally as well as physically. I was just happy we had a brilliant driver in Q behind the wheel and that we hadn’t done it by public transport, which had been our original plan. Further exploration and opportunities to add to the photo collection came at the border point with Malaysia.

First Impressions of Betong

We chose to stay at the Butterfly Princess Hotel on the edge of town, which was decent enough, especially for the price that we managed to snaffle. Ideally, I’d have preferred somewhere nearer the town centre, but this was fine as we had a vehicle and an eager driver.

After freshening up, we headed out for dinner and to see what Beton had to offer on a Friday night. There is a heavy Chinese influence in town, and we enjoyed some of its quality food, with the multicultural town offering many dining options. Ta Yern Restaurant certainly did the trick before we wandered on foot, wanting to explore.

It certainly seemed a lively place. How much was related to Christmas and New Year, I couldn’t be sure, but from the Clock Tower, which looked to be the central focus, the town had a superb vibe. We walked uphill and then through the dramatic, bendy Betong Mongkolrit Tunnel, where many youngsters were adding clips to their TikTok profiles.

They were also snapped next to the many fine examples of street art that we came across. A night market was set up opposite the Betong Cultural Plaza, an Amphitheatre for staging events, which lay empty on this occasion.

My video of the Tour on my YouTube Channel

Music, Rooftop Bars and Birthday Surprises

Through the gaps in the market stalls, I spotted lights on a cliff looking like they may belong to a bar, but I couldn’t find anything on my app to confirm it, which was a shame as it looked like it offered a great view.

We returned through the tunnel, with somewhere to sit down for a drink being the number one priority. We tried a place just past the exit that looked like just what we needed until we examined the menu. It stocked foreign beers only, and at a fair premium, no doubt looking after visitors from across the border.

Many male Malaysians head to Betong, looking to have fun for the night, with the prices being aimed towards them. Plenty of establishments provided places for those prepared to wail out karaoke numbers to young ladies looking to accommodate and give their customers' bodies a rub. Sadly, that meant there were not lots of places suited to a family group.

I suggested a place close to our hotel, which we’d passed earlier, was a similar story regarding the menu and its prices, before Q took command once more. He drove up some steep, narrow streets, unveiling even more adult nightlife, before pulling over and leading the way on foot to speak to staff at the entrance of somewhere.

Safe House was exactly what we were looking for. It had a promotion on large bottles of Leo’s and a rooftop view. It turned out that it was the place I had spotted from the market around an hour earlier. Entertainment was provided by a live band, which I thoroughly enjoyed. They sang and played a range of slow Western ballads quite well.

However, the drummer, whom I can only think preferred something like Aerosmith, played as though his life depended on it, nearly falling off his stool, such were his exertions. I thought it was hilarious and felt slightly cheated when they played some Thai rock, which was more his style.

It just so happened that it was also Q’s wife, Ann’s, birthday, which had been mentioned earlier but forgotten about as we trekked around town. Normally teetotal, she enjoyed a cocktail, while their eleven-year-old son, Indy, was delighted with his meat and fries.

It was a perfect evening before we headed back to the hotel, with Taew wanting to visit the 7/11 store opposite. It was at that point, quite possibly alcohol induced, that I had an idea as I followed her inside with Indy.

We managed to find a box containing small cakes, some candles, and a lighter. Back in our room, we opened them and lit the candles before knocking on the door of the room next to us. Ann answered, taken aback. Q grabbed his camera to film us serenading her with Happy Birthday. It was a lovely way to finish off what had been yet another fantastic and educational day.

Betong at Night

Learning About the Deep South

Talking of education and continual learning, I picked up two things before we congregated in the lobby the following morning. Betong had an airport, with flights ceasing during Covid, and not yet resuming. The fares from Bangkok were said to be astronomical, which also explained the prices in the bars that we had quickly departed from. It was certainly an affluent tourist destination.

Secondly, Taew reiterated the dangers of the area that we had driven through from Pattani to Betong. When Q knew we wanted to do the trip, he rearranged his work schedule so that he could look after us, such was his concern. It was one of those occasions when, sitting in the back of the car, it was best not to understand Thai properly, as he had voiced his severe worries while he drove. I was oblivious.

Exploring Betong’s Attractions

My earlier announcement of wishes was to be granted before we left Betong. We went back to where we had been the previous evening to have a look at the museum, and I would get the chance to visit the local stadium. The Betong Museum could have done with some TLC, to be honest, even if the top floor offered a majestic view of the town below.

Sud Siam Park across the road was completely the opposite, being well-maintained and offering lots of beauty. I’m sure it provides a perfect place for those wanting to sit and relax while children enjoy having fun in the playground.

Betong Stadium was magnificent and something the town could be proud of, helped by sitting in a bowl on two sides and having lots of white paintwork. It reminded me of a very much smaller version of Estádio Nacional in Lisbon, where Celtic won their European Cup back in 1967, in its layout. It was a great start to the morning, yet it would get better after I tasted an amazing breakfast for the first time.

The packed bowl of upturned sticky rice was fused with chicken and had a sort of suet top. To accompany it came a soup, which was not unlike oxtail from back in the UK, only with chunks of pork on the bone in it. It was so good that I ordered a second helping, which I think pleased our hosts, as I got stuck in and embraced local food and culture.

We stopped at the mightily impressive Wat Phuttha Thiwat, which I considered to be a beautiful temple, that barely registered with my fellow travellers, as I took some snaps. Then it was announced that we were going to have a dessert.

Fruit jelly, served in crushed ice, is extremely popular in Thailand. The shop that we were taken to, Betong Grass Jelly Shop, certainly was, as customers waited for tables and chairs to become available. Cyclists were tucking in when we got there, with the jelly being very nice. Again, it highlighted the benefits of being in the hands of those who know their local area, as I would never have thought to try it.

Betong Garden

Temples, Gardens and Dual Pricing

Any thoughts of us heading straight back to Hat Yai were well and truly put to bed over the following few hours, ensuring that I would leave the area with a full overview. First up was a stop at Winter Flower Garden in Betong. 

Q and Indy stayed outside while I went in with the ladies. While it was extremely beautiful, with many photo opportunities around the excellent displays, it wasn’t quite what I expected for the entrance fee, which was higher for foreigners. I wouldn’t pay to see it twice, but then again, I’m not a gardener.

If anything can ignite a long discussion on social media among expats in Thailand, it is the subject of dual pricing. Basically, those without a Thai ID card pay more in some places than the locals. Often significantly so. It provokes anger, and in a way, those offended have a point.

Certainly, when in the company of Thais who want to go somewhere. I know farangs, as Westerners are referred to in Thailand, who sit outside and wait, which I can also understand.

However, I continue to pay, knowing that what isn’t a huge amount of money compared to attractions in Western countries goes towards the upkeep of the attraction. And, apart from anything else, it won’t change a thing by moaning about it. Either go or not is my philosophy, despite the endless pages of discussion on the subject.

On this occasion, an open-sided vehicle took patrons around the gardens, which I thought pointed to the gardens being too large to navigate on foot. There I was again, presuming in Thailand, while completely forgetting that walking is alien to a good many of the population.

We went to the highest and furthest point but were back towards the exit and the obligatory souvenir shop within minutes, with your author feeling a bit cheated.

The Dramatic Piyamit Tunnels

The Piyamit Tunnels

Our next port of call was truly fascinating as it reflected the troubled times of fighting and terrorism in the region. The road to get to Piyamit Tunnel was an adventure, as landslides meant that driving had to be done extremely carefully, next to many sheer drops.

It wasn’t one for the faint-hearted, with tight twists and bends. Some of the inclines were incredible, which meant that there was not too much conversation taking place inside our vehicle, indicating nerves.

For the second time in an hour, I was beginning to feel a bit daft, as once we had paid our entrance fee, with me once again paying a lot more, we started walking up steep steps without any sign of a tunnel. It was becoming increasingly hot, and several of us were sweating profusely as the indulgences of the previous evening started to take effect.

I thought it was a ruse, with the tunnel consisting of the trees that grew overhead to protect the steps and pathways. Then we reached a sign of life and a couple of buildings. These were the entrance to the tunnels and a museum.

The tunnels had been dug in the 70s by Malay communists to hide away from the authorities and to store their ammunition, while helicopters and planes flew overhead, dropping bombs on them. The work that must have gone into the several tunnels was immense, and they had since been reinforced and turned into a marvellous attraction.

It was well worth a visit, not least for the exercise routine that it involved. The millennium tree on the way down, I thought, was extraordinary. We were certainly ready for some water back in the car.

Boiling Eggs at the Hot Springs

Hot Springs and the Skywalk

More hazardous roads were overcome, taking us down to Betong Hot Springs. This was a smaller version of the famous thermal waters of Rotorua in New Zealand, which I visited a couple of decades earlier.

The little ponds at this site were there for visitors to boil eggs in, while a large pool provided warm water. It was a pleasant sight, and sure enough, the eggs we purchased and boiled came out perfect, all through the helping hand of nature.

Before we headed back to Hat Yai, there was still one attraction to take in. There were yet more hills to climb, but not in the car, for very good reasons. When we reached the end of the road, we were transferred into a songthaew, a truck which has been adapted with seating in the back for passengers, which took us up a narrower path.

I'm pretty sure it could be made into a thoroughfare suitable for ordinary vehicles, but of course, then there would be no charge to visitors using the transport of the locals who are in league with the attraction further up. And there was a plethora of stallholders selling their wares in the car park who would probably miss out on their sales. Maybe it was tiredness that sparked my cynicism.

Skywalk Aiyerweng was very special, even if I was losing my sense of humour, being married to a Thai and living there, while still being charged considerably more than she paid to use the same thing.

I began to know how Sid Boggle, the character played by Sid James, felt in the classic comedy movie Carry on Camping when he kept encountering hidden surcharges from Joshua Fiddler, the camp owner played by Peter Butterworth.

It’s worth a watch for those of a younger age who want to see what made the older generation laugh, as well as offering the opportunity to have a glimpse of Barbara Windsor’s naked upper half. Remember to bookmark this article as you head off to Google and YouTube.

The views after taking the lift to the top level of the attraction were incredible, looking over the pretty landscape and being up here with the clouds.

Head in the Clouds - Skywalk Aiyerweng

Football Connections on the Journey Home

The ride back to Yala reminded me once again just how fortunate we are to live in a world where digital technology can connect people and keep us in touch with events. I followed the Test Match from Sydney between Australia and India and received a private message on a social media platform, which immediately grabbed my attention.

Charlie Clough, an Englishman playing football in Thailand, had been in touch. Whether a friend suggested that he message me or he remembered where I lived, as we follow each other on Twitter/X, I don’t know.

He was close to completing a deal which would see him loaned to my local club, Sisaket United, and he wanted to find out some local knowledge. While excited, I couldn’t tell anyone until everything was confirmed and announced to the public.

I’d like to think I gave him the right advice, and he enjoyed his time with the club in some way because of it. He certainly seemed happy enough on the occasions when we met up later. It was a timely prompt, as it happens.

Q had an appointment in Yala to pick up some sweets from a specialist shop that he had ordered from before he took me to the adjacent football stadiums in the city centre, meaning he had a very happy man sitting in the row behind him. Indy wasn’t complaining either, as there was a fried chicken hut where we parked the vehicle so he could enjoy some of his favourite food.

Betong and the deep south had been a fascinating short trip, and somewhere certainly worth visiting for those wishing to broaden their minds.

If you enjoyed Betong, you might also like my articles about:

• Hat Yai

• Travelling through Laos

• Rural Isan

• Thai football

Please feel free to check out my YouTube channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.