Discovering Samut Songkhram
Travelling through Thailand with my wife Taew, her cousin Q, his wife Ann and their son Indy was always going to be an adventure. They were taking us south towards their home in Hat Yai, but our journey gave us the chance to discover places we might otherwise have missed, including Samut Songkhram, which I'd experienced many years earlier.
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| Amphawa Floating Market |
A Province Built Around Water
Some places in Thailand have a habit of drawing you back. For me, Samut Songkhram is one of them. What began as an adventurous solo trip involving trains, ferries and football has since become a destination I've revisited with my wife and family, discovering something different each time.
Samut Songkhram is one of Thailand's smallest provinces by area, known for its winding canals, coconut farms and traditional riverside communities. Life moves at a gentler pace along the Mae Klong River, where the province's capital is famous for the unique Mae Klong Railway Market and its lively waterfront atmosphere. It is a place that blends history, local culture and warm Thai hospitality.
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| Samut Songkhram in 2013 |
My first Visit to Samut Songkhram
That first visit was in October 2013, at the end of a holiday, in which I’d played in a six-a-side cricket tournament in Bangkok. After a few days in Krabi, I’d flown back to Don Muang, where I travelled on public transport to Wongwian Wai to catch a train.
Time was tight after my plane had been slightly delayed, so I was relieved to pay 10 THB (around £0.20 at the time) for a ticket and still catch my intended train. This would take me to Samut Sakhon, where I’d get the ferry across the Tha Chin River.
From there, another train would take me through the market in Samut Songkhram to the famous Mae Klong terminus, where many tourists head. I had booked a hotel to stay overnight, so I could watch the local football team in action.
All seemed fine as I boarded my basic carriage with the windows down and fans hanging from the ceiling. The legroom was tight as the ride took us through the suburbs, passing temples, housing and stalls built virtually on top of the tracks.
Many fields, nearing the end of the rainy season, were waterlogged as we progressed into the country. The recent weather was a worry when I made my plans. Obviously, I didn’t want the pitch at the stadium to be unfit.
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| The Samut Sakhon Ferry |
Racing Between Trains and Ferries
Around eighty minutes later, we arrived at the terminus of Mahachai Station in Samut Sakhon. I knew that I had to hurry to catch the connecting train. I expected several other passengers to be doing the same thing, with staff assisting and things being well organised. How little I learned! I was in Thailand.
I rushed through the busy street, doubling up as a Sunday Market, to the ferry. The fare was just 3 BHT across the river. Time was against me, so on the other side, I set off as fast as I could. Ban Laem station was not signposted until I went a hundred metres down another narrow street offering wares to the passing public.
A kind lady trader stopped me. She must have seen the scene of confused foreign tourists hundreds of times in the past, before breaking the news that there wasn’t a train. I was given an up-to-date timetable. The news wasn’t good. If I waited for the next service, I’d miss the football.
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| All Aboard to Samut Songkhram |
Local Help Saves the Day
Fortunately, the lady and her younger assistant were able to help. They suggested that I go back over the river and go to the main street where the buses ran from. Without further ado, I was back on the ferry.
I walked along the waiting buses, pointing and saying Samut Songkhram. This was my best option as all signs were written in Thai. Ideally, the drivers would either nod or shake their heads. It worked, and I was soon aboard an old vehicle waiting to depart.
Off we went, stopping at regular intervals. I had paid the driver my 25 BHT before I got on, while a no-nonsense conductress worked her way down the bus collecting fares. If only such staff were on board London buses.
The bus continued sounding its horn whenever anyone stood by the roadside, stopping where requested. There were no official stops and certainly no timetable, but the system seemed to work fine.
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| The Train Approaches Mae Klong Station |
Welcome
to Samut SongkhramIt took an hour to reach Samut Songkhram. It wouldn’t have taken too much longer on a direct bus from Bangkok, but where would be the fun in that? I jumped out when reaching the bus station and quickly got into a tuk-tuk. The driver asked for 50 BHT to take me to my hotel, which seemed good to me.
My room at the Baan Amphawa Resort & Spa cost less than £25 and overlooked the Mae Klong River. After a quick shower, I decided to walk to the football stadium, spotting its floodlights in the distance from the hotel jetty.
I decided to kill two birds with one stone by walking to the venue to get in some exercise, as the hassle of arranging transport was avoided. Warm smiles were exchanged after I turned off the main road and walked along back lanes.
The sight of a blatantly lost foreigner no doubt amused the locals. Dogs howled, so I was most relieved to get back on the main drag and into the town centre, soon finding the railway I wanted to see the following morning, ahead of the train arriving.
I came across a large open square hosting a market. The sounds and smells justified my decision to do something different rather than stick to the tourist zones in Bangkok. After purchasing some snacks, I continued towards the stadium, where the atmosphere was good, despite the game being of average quality.
After the game, I decided to head back into the town centre, hoping to find a bar with some football fans inside. However, nightlife and Samut Songkhram didn’t appear to go hand in hand. The fag end of the market was still ongoing, but instead, I bought some snacks before heading home for an early night after taking a lovely seat on the waterfront to reflect on a classic day.
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| Samut Songkhram Market |
The Famous Mae Klong Railway Market
The following morning was another stunner weather-wise. After I had my breakfast and said my farewells, I once again decided to walk into town, only this time on the main road. Freshly caught fish from the river stood drying on hooks by the roadside, and once again, nobody was shy of a large smile.
I arrived at the level crossing at Mae Klong station in good time after walking through the packed indoor market whose stalls were literally right up to the track. The sun was burning through, and temperatures were around 30’.
My luggage was becoming a pest, especially as huge crowds of tourists were gathering. I decided to ask a lady running a sweet and cake stall right by where I wanted to be if she’d look after my bags in return for 100 BHT.
Her assistant immediately recognised me. I bought my snacks from her on the way to the match the night before. They agreed to help me but refused any money. It summed up the good folk of the town.
The train arrived a little late in true Thai style as the traders dismantled their stalls to let it through. It was a little contrived, but still a tremendous spectacle and one I was delighted that I’d taken in. I said thank you and walked to the bus station for my next adventure - a bus ride to Ratchaburi.
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| Family on Tour |
Returning with Family in 2024
Taew had long wanted to visit Amphawa Floating Market, so we booked rooms at a small nearby homestay, phoning directly, which can often work out cheaper than using a booking website. I was more than happy, having previously heard good things about the market from friends in Bangkok.
Apple Homestay, tucked down a narrow lane outside the city, proved a peaceful base, with friendly owners and a relaxed riverside atmosphere. It was certainly a million miles away from the stereotypical seaside landladies I remembered from the British coast.
Once we had deposited our bags, we were soon at the market, situated around a small tributary flowing into the Mae Klong. It was certainly popular, with the narrow lanes and footbridge packed with those wanting to sit and eat or drink. Some purchased various goods or food to take home, which was our preferred option after enjoying a light snack.
Amphawa’s atmosphere beside the water was ideal. With enough food to feed a large rugby squad, including stir-fry made by a lady, which was worth turning up to watch her perform, we headed back for a lazy and relaxing evening as some Beer Lao was enjoyed by the water, along with our feast.
An early start awaited the next morning, and at 7:30 am, we were all packed and heading into town. There was some level of trepidation as we departed, as the water from the river and its many small tributaries had overflowed and flooded the nearby car park following a high tide. While there was some awkwardness walking in the city, I led the way without encountering any problems.
The reason we were there at that time was to greet the 8.30 am train. We wandered around taking lots of nice photos in the station before looking for the best vantage point in readiness for the train’s arrival.
A woman who owned a stall was using a machete to open coconuts, which she sold to the many tourists so that they could enjoy the milk inside. She was most dramatic as she shouted out the same rhyme each time. I bought one just so that I could film it.
Next to her stall was an area nobody else had spotted, which we grabbed quickly. Another market worker placed a temporary rail in front of us, with luck being on our side once again. It certainly pays to smile and be polite.
Several traders had embraced the tourist boom by opening small coffee shops, and must have been delighted with the increased trade, but one couldn’t help but notice that some visitors were not always aware of the space they were taking up.
They were walking four abreast on the tracks and generally not respecting anyone else’s right to enjoy themselves. Some blocked the tracks for extended photo sessions. Everyone wants pictures, of course, but a little awareness of others goes a long way in such a crowded space.
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| Don Hoi Lot |
Another Samut Songkhram Attraction
Once we had seen enough, it was time to head back to the car. I knew our next leg of the tour was to Chumphon, and then forward to Hat Yai for New Year’s Eve the following day. That was a shame as I wanted to show our extended family somewhere in the province Taew and I had visited in January 2023.
She had agreed that an overnight stay by the seaside in Prachuap Khiri Khan seemed like a good idea, suiting me fine as the Bangkok football club I support, Port FC, were playing there, which of course was purely coincidental.
As the driver, she wanted to head off early and suggested stopping for lunch at Don Hoi Lot, 10 km south of Samut Songkhram city. It proved to be a nice attraction, with an abundance of razor clams, locally called hoi lot.
Plenty of visitors experience the unique coastal scenery, sample fresh seafood from nearby restaurants, and watch local fishermen at work during low tide, which is exactly what we experienced before continuing our journey. However, a return group visit would have to wait for now.
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