Bun Fai, Beer and Auntie Lamyong
Since moving
to Isan, I've enjoyed visiting attractions, festivals and getting to know my
in-laws. Without doubt, an introduction to Bun Bang Fai rocket festivals, first
at a large event and then at a smaller one, was a
highlight. Now it was time to see how a local village went about staging one.
Walking and
Cycling Around Rural Sisaket
Since moving
to Sisaket in March 2023, I’ve spent plenty of time cycling and walking around
the surrounding villages, often to the amazement of locals unused to seeing a
farang travelling on foot.
Indeed,
Ning, a traffic cop, married to my wife's cousin, stopped in his car one day to
offer me a lift. He shook his head, smiled and drove away in disbelief when I
turned him down. One of those walks took me to Nong Hai, home to Auntie Lamyong
and Uncle Wah, who can be read about in my piece about a visit to a previous
rocket festival.
It’s around
5km from where we live, and I always enjoy visiting. As well as Lamyong and
Wah, their son and his family have their home on the land, as does their
granddaughter. With their offspring and their kids, there is always something
going on, especially when some return home from afar.
News Travels
Fast in Thai Villages
If anything
is happening locally, we usually hear about it through a phone message, which
is how things are passed on in this part of the world. The original news is
often broadcast over loudspeakers located around each village, with a community
leader announcing any important news or details of any celebrations or events.
| Parade Day in Nong Hai |
The news
this time was that Nong Hai was staging its own rocket festival weekend. There
was no way I was missing out on that. Taew drove us and parked up at aunties,
as Wah took me onto the main road through the village, where the floats were
starting to assemble for the Friday parade.
The Friday Parade
Each little
community in the village had put something together, with those without a
vehicle putting on a display, having a truck playing music to walk and dance in
front of. It was all very impressive, taking me back to happy days as a kid in
Scarborough when a grand procession would parade through town.
One exhibit
couldn’t fail to grab anyone's attention. It was a huge purple penis and
testicles made from papier-mache. There is no other way to describe it. I was
lost for words. Other performers were in intentionally over-the-top costume
make-up. There was certainly no attempt to offend, just local people having
fun.
The parade
got underway with traditional music blaring out, and vehicles going at the
usual snail's pace, with people coming out of their houses and lining the road,
cheering, with some joining in the dancing. I was guilty as charged. It was a
fantastic way to spend a Friday afternoon.
After a few
drinks, the parade finished at the grounds of the Nong Hai Subdistrict
Administrative Organisation, where the dancing continued, and a bouncy castle
was in place for youngsters to keep occupied. We would return the following
lunchtime.
Rockets,
Beer and Gambling
Saturday
looked to be a little iffy, weather-wise. We found Lamyong and other members of
the family waiting for us around the far side of the lake, which is where the
rockets would be launched from. The remaining ground between the vendor stalls
was rough and uneven.
Despite
this, our blanket was plonked down on what was an uncomfortable terrain, as I
thought anyone could sit. We had a couple of fold-up seats, which we took turns
in. Beers were bought, predominantly from one man who astutely wore his Sisaket
United football shirt. How could I turn him down?
The rockets
were smaller than the previous displays we had been to, but still dramatic. As
it was a local event, not as many entered, with many more competitions to
choose from. It was good, clean fun, while those with stalls once again did
well.
My YouTube Video of the Festval
Why Local
Festivals Matter
The Nong Hai
Bun Fai may never attract large tourist crowds, but that was part of its charm.
It was two days of music, laughter, rockets and community spirit — the kind of
local experience that makes rural Thailand so rewarding to explore.
If you
enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share
videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the
country.
Thanks for
reading.
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