Songkran Surprise: Village Muay Thai

I thought I was getting used to the format of the Songkran celebrations in our countryside Isan village. How many times must I remind myself to never presume in Thailand? I made the mistake yet again, thinking it would be a quiet night at home, only to end up going to a local Muay Thai Boxing meeting.

We'd already had a full day. There had been a 5 am visit to a temple under construction, the local Songkran parade, blessings for the elder members of the family and drinks with my in-laws. By our village standards, that was relatively quiet!

A Surprise Songkran Evening

The evening was drawing in, with the sun setting, when Taew announced that we were going to go to a Muay Thai boxing match. I wasn’t expecting that! However, it seemed like a decent enough plan, with her mum and auntie from up the road fancying it. We picked up another relative around the corner and set off, with my good lady behind the wheel.

I was familiar with our route until we did a right turn at the village of Bang Ko. The roads seemed in good condition, offering me a new cycling route, which I took advantage of later, and can be read in Oh What a Beautiful Day. 

The Young Guns Going For It

Searching for the Boxing Ring

Ban Na Sung looked much like our own village. No boxing ring. Onwards we went. Indeed, I’m not sure if anyone knew its location. Onwards we travelled to Ban Pueai, where I continued to listen to those in the car, without really understanding what they were saying.

However, I do recognise tone and when things aren’t going completely smoothly, along with body language. Eventually, we saw someone outside their house who pointed us in the right direction to go north, then take a left at the next village towards Ta Dop.

Pulling into a government complex with a lake in front, I assumed we'd missed it. Workers appeared to be taking the ring down rather than putting it up. With barely anyone in the car park, I was convinced we were too late. Then, gradually, more people arrived. The ring wasn't being dismantled at all—it was still being assembled.

The tickets were 50 THB each, around £1.30. Some stallholders arrived and set up, with the usual drinks and food being available. Auntie Lamyong and Wah pulled in on their motorbike to join us outside. Around here, there never seems to be any rush. People are quite happy to chat while everything slowly comes together.

My YouTube Channel Video Capturing the Night

Let’s Get Ready to Rumble

It took what seemed like ages before we were sitting under the roof, as officials and judges assembled at the far end in the VIP seats. It couldn't have been more different from the stadiums I'd visited in Bangkok.

My previous Muay Thai experiences had been in Bangkok at Lumphini and Rajadamnern Stadiums, where tourists were separated from locals and gambling quietly buzzed in the background.

The only other times I’d seen Muay Thai were brief glimpses in the arcade in Chiang Mai on Loi Kroh Road, where the bouts were said to be exhibitions, and the boxers went up and down the bars with their collection boxes looking for charity.

Rural Muay Thai Is Different

Here in rural Sisaket, the event was deadly serious, far more intense than I expected. Several villages were represented, as we started with juniors in the under-10 section. I quickly found out that the female members of my family were quickly excited at the sign of a fight.

We were sitting a little bit back from the ring. The next time I looked around, they were gone and had got closer to the action, offering their feedback to the fighters. It made me laugh as Taew and I took it all in, as the bouts continued, with the boxers getting gradually older.

A Large Crowd Gathers

The Gambling and Atmosphere

An older local man—whether ambitious, slightly drunk or simply mischievous—kept insisting I should get in the ring. I do find them! Trying my best to avoid his persistent requests, I got around, filming material for a video for my YouTube Channel, savouring the fantastic community atmosphere that was tinged with genuine aggression. 

The family of Thai international footballer Poklaw Anan lived on the edge of our village, with them being involved in Muay Thai. One of them was wearing one of his old team shirts. Unfortunately, the opponent of the youngster withdrew, meaning we had no local favourite to cheer on.

Those in their physical prime provided great entertainment, with each fighter throughout the evening giving their all. I was a little unsure but not totally surprised by some of the decisions made by the judges. 

I had my doubts about refereeing in Thai football in front of big crowds, with lots of suspicion as to whether bribes were offered. It stood to reason that smaller events, with some discreet gambling, would follow the same pattern.

Elders Action

The Over-70s Contest

The bout that created more feelings than the others was the senior over-70-year-old fight. It was ferocious, with both old men putting their age aside. Both men were knocked down during the three rounds before one finally landed the decisive blow.

Mixed Feelings Afterwards

Seeing the defeated boxer stagger past our car afterwards, needing help to stay on his feet, took some of the shine off an otherwise fascinating evening.

The local Muay Thai Songkran meeting had lots going for it, being well organised and providing affordable entertainment for an appreciative crowd. But I didn’t enjoy the last contest, which put a bit of a downer on things, not that the rest of our car seemed too perturbed.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.