A First Experience of Bun Phawet in Isan

One of the most beautiful things about living in Thailand is discovering the many festivals celebrated throughout the country. While they are not always easy to discover, often in my case through my wife Taew informing me at relatively short notice, I think they are worth pursuing if you want to assimilate and get a true feeling for the place. It was certainly the case with Bun Phawet in March 2026.

Bun Phawet Parade in Roi Et

About Bun Phawet

Bun Phawet Festival is one of the most important merit-making occasions in the northeastern Isan region. Rooted in Buddhist tradition, the festival celebrates the story of Prince Vessantara, the Buddha’s penultimate incarnation, whose generosity and compassion are retold through sermons, music, and community gatherings. It brings settlements of all sizes together in a vibrant display of faith, culture, and local identity.

During Bun Phawet, temples and streets are decorated with colourful banners while long processions carry painted scrolls depicting scenes from the Vessantara Jataka. Monks recite the sacred story throughout the day, and local people gather to make merit, offer food, and participate in traditional performances. 

It has religious significance while also serving as a celebration of community spirit, preserving customs and storytelling traditions that have been passed down through generations in rural Thailand.

Raising the Pole at Wat Suan Kluai

Two for the Price of One

Taew told me that there was a major celebration coming up in Roi Et, a city that we both enjoyed visiting in the past, after it appeared on her Facebook timeline. While social media undoubtedly has its faults, it is invaluable for revealing what is going on locally, with scarcely any printed material being produced.

I booked a room at the Hop Inn, which had proved an excellent choice when we had stayed there on New Year’s Eve, and I headed out for a cycle ride to see my friend Dennis at the local café at his home just up the lane. His wife overheard me talking about our forthcoming adventure and told me about the celebrations in our village the following day.

My good lady confirmed this and told me that her mother, who never misses a local event, would be going to the temple to make merit and suggested that I head along with her.
I was astonished to see just how many people had turned out. There was the raising of four tall poles decorated with gifts, offerings, and colourful items, an important symbolic tradition.

They represented acts of generosity and merit-making, reflecting the central message of the Vessantara Jataka story. The gifts attached to the poles included food, household goods, money, and daily necessities, which were later donated to monks, temples, or members of the community.

Prayers by the Oak Tree

Following prayers, I expected a procession around the village, so I went back to the café to get confirmation. I was told that it took place later, after everyone had gone to make merit by the big old oak tree just outside the village.

I went home, swapping my bicycle for what I call my Madgemobile, for fans of the comedy Benidorm. I could then offer lifts in the back of the small electric cart to elders needing assistance.

The procession commenced following the ceremony as the sun started to go down, with the long banner being unveiled and carried while many danced along to the local music being played from a small double-decker vehicle. Some villagers came to their front gates and shared food and drinks. It was an uplifting spectacle, exemplifying the community spirit that is so evident in rural Thailand.

On we went along the lane from the main road towards the temple, with many more joining in the fun along the way. Water was being thrown, perhaps in preparation for the Songkran Festival a month or so later. A couple of people taking part made sure I got a dousing as I headed home.

Discovering Bun Phawet on my YouTube Channel

On to Roi Et

The following Saturday, we were away bright and breezy, taking a familiar route around the edge of Sisaket city, on through Rasisalai, and on to Yasothon for food at our favourite restaurant in their Chinatown area. The khao soi was as fantastic as ever. It was just another hour to Roi Et.

The hotel informed us that they were full and we could not check in until 2 pm, so we went around the corner to the Riverside Bar & Restaurant, which ironically is located nowhere near the river. To my surprise, my mate Oggi came in on his way to football in Khon Kaen.

We headed towards the tower, which dominates the skyline, with Bueng Phlanchai, a huge island park surrounded by the lake, below it. Parking wasn’t easy, but we got sorted before heading to the tall landmark, where a restaurant was giving food away, continuing the theme of the festival.

The park surrounding the tower was adorned with coloured banners hanging from trees and over walkways. The community gave away food, drinks, and gifts; something particularly heartwarming when considering the state of the world elsewhere. All the time, I was collecting video clips to later make into a video for my YouTube Channel.

A Cascade of Colour in Roi Et

This continued as we crossed the bridge onto the island in the park, taking in the scene with many more people eager to join in the festivities. It was an extremely hot day, and Taew suggested we find somewhere to relax.

There were no arguments from me, especially when I spotted an establishment over the road from the lake where some Westerners were finishing off their beers outside.

Peter’s Restaurant was very friendly. I enjoyed my gin and tonic and laab moo tord, small fried, crispy and spicy meatballs that are an Isan speciality, while Taew considered having her feet massaged in the adjoining room. Instead, she arranged for us to come back at 5 pm and have a table reserved outside at the front.

We went back to the hotel for a siesta before returning by Grab taxi so that Taew could also imbibe. First, however, was the procession on Suriyadechbamrung Road, near the tower, as many local communities passed slowly in their open floats depicting culture and history. Among them were dancers and musicians playing traditional regional music.

It was vibrant, colourful, and great fun, if hot!

Saturday Evening in Roi Et

Returning to the restaurant, we enjoyed a lovely time. My good lady got her massage while watching the world go by, while I kept my eye on the football elsewhere. Staff handed out free food, as they had done at lunchtime. The tower lit up in different colours, while music could be heard in the distance, offering a stunning backdrop.

Bun Phawet had certainly been a wonderful discovery. Experiencing the contrast between the village and city celebrations gave me a better understanding of the festival and how different communities celebrate it.

And Roi Et, once again, proved to be an excellent place to spend time.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.