Nakhon Phanom and the Fire Boat Festival

Any expat in Thailand who wants to deepen their understanding of the country and its customs has plenty of options. Religious festivals often follow traditions dating back centuries, such as marking the end of Buddhist Lent, as we discovered on an overnight trip to Nakhon Phanom.

Discovering Thai Lent

Before I settled down with my Thai wife, I didn’t know Thais celebrated Lent like Christians; only theirs lasts three months and begins in August. When Taew told me of a sociable friend and a relative of the same ilk abstaining from alcohol for three months, I thought she was joking until she explained. 

It began to fit together when I realised that it begins with the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival and its religious connotations. Over the years since we moved to Sisaket, we have enjoyed attending and seeing the procession. In 2023, my good lady remarked that it would be nice to visit Nakhon Phanom to see the Fire Boat Festival. I agreed and then did some research.

What’s It All About?

Giant illuminated boats, 60–80 metres long, from all twelve districts of Nakhon Phanom Province are decorated with lanterns, flowers, incense, candles, and recycled materials. Illuminated boats floating on the Mekong River honour Buddha and bless the water. What’s not to like?

Hotel prices were noticeably higher than usual, and finding a vacant room wasn’t easy. We eventually found a hotel slightly above our normal budget in what looked like a good location. After an enjoyable Sunday in Sisaket town with visiting friends, we headed to the festival’s final day.

It was an interesting journey, with Taew behind the wheel as ever and me navigating. I thoroughly enjoy seeing new places. We passed through areas where agriculture is the main industry, with light traffic, and we saw plenty of pleasant scenery. Finding a gas station was a relief after a long stretch.

Information is Key

We reached Nakhon Phanom town around midday. We took a stroll to find information and eat lunch, as we couldn’t check in for a couple of hours. The town on the Mekong River was interesting enough. A large market on the promenade along Sunthornvichit Road gave Taew a chance to shop.

She chatted to the young staff who served us lunch across the road and seemed rather dismayed. They told her the festivities were over, and everything had taken place the previous evening. It made sense, but surely the Thais stuck to official dates and would do something to mark the end of Lent? I told her not to worry, and we’d still have fun.

The Square Hotel proved an inspired choice. It was spotlessly clean, modern, served a good breakfast, and the staff were helpful, which we especially appreciated when we checked in. The gentleman at reception explained to Taew what was happening later. We could relax knowing we were guaranteed a good time.

Perfect Planning 

Occasionally I feel my age and realise we are acting like my mum and dad when they went away. We had bought a couple of folding seats online and we’d taken them along. What an excellent idea that turned out to be. A stage was further along from the Phaya Sri Satta Nakarat brass monument on the waterfront. We opened our seats by the railings to watch the boats and the show.

I bought an assortment of drinks and snacks from the 7-Eleven and pop-up stalls across the road before we nestled in for a few hours. Traditional dancing, with youngsters singing and playing instruments on the stage, kept us entertained. We chatted to locals, who were proud that a farang wanted to visit and embrace Thai culture.

The crowds built up behind the railings overlooking the Mekong as the boats began coming downstream. Again, our seats proved invaluable as we swivelled around and got a great view, without blocking those standing behind us. It was an excellent spectacle. I’m glad we chose the night we did. I imagined it would have been too crowded for comfort twenty-four hours earlier.

More than Just a Fire Boat Festival

After the flotilla and stage show, we walked opposite the market and ate in a fine open-fronted restaurant to round off a most enjoyable evening. Rather than search for any nightlife, we called it a night, ready to explore on the way home the following day. 

About an hour south, we stopped at Wat Phrathat Phanom and Phra That Phanom Ong Derm Stupa. Both were stunning temples on a lovely day. We walked a few minutes to the banks of the Mekong, across the water from Laos.

Our journey continued through Mukdahan and Amnat Charoen Provinces, then onwards to familiar Ubon Ratchathani. We bought fish from someone by the banks of a klong as we travelled along a country lane before returning home to reflect on another marvellous discovery.

The video I filmed for my YouTube Channel

To Conclude

I recommend visiting Nakhon Phanom to see the Fire Boat Festival. If you like to be among an exciting crowd, then a weekend night is best. Book your hotel early, have provisions and your own seats and wear an extra layer of clothing, as it can be chilly by the Mekong after dark. Do all that, and you’ll have a wonderful time.
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Thanks for reading.
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