Discovering Hua Hin – My Honest Thoughts

Thailand is lucky to have many attractive coastal options for those looking to relax by the sea. Hua Hin is one of its most popular, and I quickly fell for it on one of my first visits over 20 years ago.

A Pleasant Pace of Life

Hua Hin, on the west of the Gulf of Thailand, has many reasons for its popularity. To me, it provides everything a tourist could want, without the full-on pace of Pattaya, which sits across the ocean. While Pattaya might be described as a tabloid, Hua Hin could be a broadsheet. Sure, there is still plenty of fun to be had, but it's less frantic.

Getting there from Bangkok takes a bit of effort, which I think works in its favour. Arriving by bus for the first time, I quickly realised it maintained a high standard as we passed the Klai Kangwon Palace, a royal residence, on the way into the city. If it was good enough for the King, then it must have been good.

Like anywhere in Thailand, Hua Hin continually evolves. When I first visited, the nightlife was found around Soi Bintabaht and its surrounding lanes. The bars were a diluted version of those in Pattaya and Bangkok’s tourist zones. Yet, when busy, they still created a fun atmosphere, without the intensity. At least, that’s how I found it.

Food, Drink and Nightlife

That area between Petchkasem Road, the main thoroughfare, and the beach was a hive of activity, with many restaurants, gift shops and massage parlours. Like anywhere in Thailand, it changes after dark, with a night market adding to the ambience. 

Naresdamri Road and the alley that follows are similar, only with quality places to eat out on jetties over the water. You can enjoy cuisine from around the world, along with the local delicacies and freshly caught seafood. No one goes hungry or thirsty in Hua Hin, regardless of the time of day.

The Hilton Hotel stands tall in this area. The hotel's legendary name has attracted businesses to open around it. You can take the lift to the Hilton’s rooftop bar and enjoy cocktails as the sun goes down, which I’ve enjoyed with friends. It offers magnificent views and a great way to spend a special occasion, like a loved one’s birthday, or to start a night of bar crawling in style.

The Beach

The beach is a great place to relax during the day. On my first visit, I spent time in a hired deckchair, where vendors sold drinks. It was a most enjoyable way to chill out as the sea lapped over my legs. Ponies offer rides along the sands, although I declined that one!

The beach has golden sands and runs all the way south to Khao Takiab, a hilly headland with a temple at the top of a flight of steps. Monkeys roam freely. It’s certainly an experience. We went by songthaew with friends and climbed the exhausting steps; another time, we took the car up the steep face. Be sure to keep hold of your possessions unless you want the primates to run off with a souvenir. 

Again, the view across the ocean is breathtaking. As you descend, huts sell seafood. One of our mates bought scallops fried in garlic and served in shells for a ridiculously low price. 

Those wanting something quieter can enjoy the smaller resort of Pranburi, located a few kilometres to the south. Cha Am lies to the north of Hua Hin. We visited with our family. It was out of season, but we found it a poor imitation, with a strip of bars off the beach like a neglected British seaside town. 

An Evolving Destination

As I mentioned earlier, things never stand still for long in Thailand. It’s not unusual to return somewhere and find favourite establishments have moved or disappeared. Hua Hin is no different. Across the main road through the city, Soi 80 still has plenty of bars.

Soi 94 across the railway has become more popular than Soi Bintabaht in recent years, with many bars and restaurants opening, including an area with many open-fronted places to eat and drink under a roof where live music is played. 

Hua Hin has several quality golf courses. I was told not to leave anything unattended, as the apes jump out of the trees and will take things. You can engage with wildlife by visiting an elephant sanctuary, offering something for all ages. 

Indeed, one of Hua Hin’s charms is its suitability for a family break. It’s big enough to avoid the nightlife while still finding plenty of places to wine and dine in a quieter environment. It has hotels for all budgets and, while offering Western comforts, still has a local vibe. 

It is becoming increasingly accessible as its airport increases flights and destinations. The new overhead railway station is geared up for high-speed services, which will cut the travel time to Bangkok. The original station remains and is worth a visit for those wanting an easy, casual stroll.

To Conclude

Hua Hin has given me many memorable visits over the years, travelling solo and with friends and family. It has something for everyone, whether it's to relax, explore, or enjoy nightlife without the intensity of other tourist destinations, all in beautiful surroundings.

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Thanks for reading.