Discovering Ayutthaya

When visitors think of Thailand, beaches and islands often come to mind first. Yet one of the country's greatest treasures lies just 80 kilometres north of Bangkok. Ayutthaya has drawn me back time and again over the years, and every visit has left me with another story to tell.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

About Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya is a city in Thailand, about 80km north of Bangkok. It was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam and a prosperous international trading port from 1350 until it was razed by the Burmese over 400 years later. The ruins of the old city now form the Ayutthaya Historical Park, an archaeological site that contains palaces, Buddhist temples, monasteries and statues. 

Getting There

There are air-conditioned minibuses that leave for Ayutthaya every half hour from the Bangkok Northern Bus Terminal, Mo Chit. The fare is around 60 THB. Some services also depart from Victory Monument, on the north-east side of the monument, close to the BTS station, with fares ranging from 80 to 120 THB.

Trains depart from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal after taking the MRT to Bang Sue Station. The journey on a faster train is around 1 hour, whereas local services often take twice as long, a similar timescale to a minibus. Fares can be as low as 20 THB in third class, while a new fleet of trains is expected on the line shortly.

My First Visit - October 2005

It was my second time in Thailand back in October 2005 when I made my first trip to Ayutthaya – one that reaffirmed my desire to move to the Land of Smiles in later years. My mate Steve was busy in Minburi but gave me the help I needed about how to get there. I travelled by minibus from Victory Monument armed with a Rough Guide to Thailand.

I was deposited at Chao Phrom Market, from where I wandered along U Thong Road and checked into a basic room in a small hotel recommended in the guidebook. I had a roam around and ate before a siesta to hide from the heat. At dusk I wandered back down the road and found a restaurant that backed onto the Pa Sak tributary of the Chao Phraya River.

Ayutthaya Railway Station

Accident and Amazing Locals

It was a lovely evening, kicking back, reading and drinking beer. Possibly more than I should have consumed. Life was wonderful as I headed back towards my accommodation, singing along to myself, when crash! I had smashed my head against a metal lean-to offering shade at the front of a shop.

I fell backwards and felt a weird sensation. Blood was pouring from my forehead. A group of young locals over the road at the front of an open garage came running across to make sure I was OK. They gave me water and bandaged the wound. It was incredible kindness. It made me want to live in Thailand even more.

The following day I commandeered a tuk-tuk to visit a few temples before dropping me at Chao Phrom Market Pier, where a small ferry took me over the river to the pier serving the railway station. Along the alleyway to get there, I met an incredible local man standing outside his restaurant.

He asked where I was from, and when I told him I was English, he started asking me quiz questions about the Premier League that he had the answers to. I know my football, but this guy had me foxed. He won my trade as I sat down to lunch with him, picking my brains.

A Return to Seek Out Nightlife - November 2018

Fast forward to November 2018 and I had a few days left at the end of my holiday after being in Chiang Mai for a cricket tournament. I took the train to Ayutthaya, wanting to see if my research on Google Maps was up to scratch regarding nightlife in the city.

It was something that underwhelmed me on my first taste, and I wanted to find out more, not being concerned that the establishments I had come across online were Thai and Japanese rather than catering for Westerners.

I undertook a long, hot walk, taking in the majestic temples and stayed at the Ayutthaya Grand Hotel, which was far from grand, but did the job in a fine location on Thanu Road, off the main route into the city when travelling from Bangkok. 

Thanu Road had a couple of large markets and lots of sois (roads) around them. Many had restaurants, bars, karaoke and massage. I had a fine evening, including watching the Thailand football team play on TV, while making new friends and bar hopping. It was certainly a part of town I’d recommend to the open-minded.

Ferry Across the River

Elephant Riding and Discovering Thai Croquet – June 2022

By August 2022, I was fully acclimatised and loving my new life in Thailand. It was time for another Thursday adventure with Steve, as we took the train to the ancient city. It was a steaming hot day when we crossed the river after alighting from the train, but we politely turned down the offer of tuk-tuks offering us tours.

It was a day to exercise and save cash and then spend later before the train home. We walked towards the city pillar shrine, breaking the journey with lunch in a basic roadside restaurant, with the destination being further than we anticipated. First, we explored Wat Phra Ram, a stunning old ruin in a magnificent park with water features.

We’d spotted some intrepid tourists riding on elephants. Such ideas were alien to me, as I’m a bit of a scaredy-cat when it comes to physical danger, despite my daredevil headbutting act on my first visit.

My pal convinced me we’d be alright, so up I clambered. I must confess I was terrified but needn’t have worried as Nelly, as I called him or her, remained calm and took us back to base after a 10-minute ride. I was delighted to touch terra firma. At the time, I didn't really think about the ethics surrounding elephant rides. Today I'd probably make a different choice.

Over the road was something that intrigued us. The park was set out with obstacles around a course. I’d seen something in Nakhon Sawan but couldn’t work out what it was. It turned out to be a form of croquet played in Thailand. When I started to play golf a few years later in Sisaket, I saw it all the time. Back in Ayutthaya, we had wildly guessed it was for Elephant Polo.

Our Day Out to Ayutthaya - On My YouTube Channel

Stunning Ruins and Another Walk

More ruins were visited, including the magnificent Wat Phra Si Sanphet with its triple chedis. We thought the 50 THB we’d paid at the first site covered us for the rest, but we had to pay again. It meant that two or three others were photographed over the wall from a distance.

Some local youngsters were leaving school and getting up to mischief as we walked back towards the city. They thought it was great fun for the farangs to play along with their antics. Google Maps weren’t helping me too much in the sun, as Ayutthaya was proving far larger than we anticipated.

Time to Relax

We eventually found Naresaun Soi 1 and 2 that joined together, which seemed to be the place to be for Westerners to find food and drink. It quite possibly was, but not during the day, with nearly all the establishments not opening until after 5 pm. We made do with a couple of Korean beers at NE RA Meat K-BBQ Buffet.

With it being around 3.30 pm, we had 3 choices. Remain where we were and hope some places opened earlier than advertised, catch a train home, or head to the area I stayed in on my previous visit. Option 2 was never going to happen, so I booked a Bolt taxi across the bridge.

There wasn’t too much luck when we got out. However, a pair of Yorkshiremen are rarely denied when they want a drink. Along Thanu Road, which appeared to have far more nightspots than I remembered, was Grand Snooker Club. Despite not wanting a game, we were more than welcome to watch and drink beer.

The Author at Wat Phra Ram

More Local Kindness

A local gent provided excellent company, speaking English and wanting to know all about us. When the clock turned 5, I suggested to Steve that we enjoy our final hour seeing where else had opened.

A young man had just opened his Imagine Bar, an open-fronted place with stools and an excellent selection of drinks. We had a beer and then some gin and tonics, while the owner allowed us to play music via YouTube on his TV, and he charged my phone. 

Indeed, we were walking to the main road to hail a taxi when he came running after me to give me the charger that I’d left behind. Another example of the kind-hearted nature of the locals.

A Couples Day Out – August 2022

A couple of months down the line, Taew and I were an item, and fancied a day out. We invited Steve and Fah along for the ride. We did many of the sights from before, along with modern temples that the ladies wanted to visit. One ruin three of us had not been to before was Wat Yai Chai Mongkol Worawihan, with my partner showing it to us.

Because she had to be back in Minburi at 4 pm to open her restaurant, it was a relatively short visit to Ayutthaya. However, we more than made up for it, sitting down from when she pulled up the shutters until closing time. 

A Family Visit – July 2023

Something special about Ayutthaya is that it seems to grab the attention of all ages, with its incredible history and ruins, the rivers that run through it, and the many options to eat and drink in restaurants with excellent views watching the shipping traffic go by.

And so, it proved when my brother, his wife, and 16-year-old son visited us, as we took them to many different places. They were just as captivated by it as I had been on my very first visit, as we spent an excellent few hours pottering about before returning to the capital.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkol Worawihan

To Conclude

Ayutthaya is a city packed with history, providing incredible sights and plenty of opportunities to relax beside the river. After almost two decades of visits, it remains somewhere I am always happy to return to, as each visit brings a different experience.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country, including one of our day outs to Ayutthaya.

Thanks for reading.