Discovering Nakhon Nayok Province

It is astonishing just how many attractions Thailand has to offer that even westerners living in the Land of Smiles never get to see. That was certainly true in my case. As a non-driver, I'd never have considered visiting Nakhon Nayok Province, despite it being less than two hours from Bangkok.

About Nakhon Nayok

Nakhon Nayok is a small province in central Thailand, northeast of Bangkok, containing mountains, forests and waterfalls, with Khao Yai National Park bordering it. It is home to diverse wildlife including bears, elephants, macaques and rare birds. Its capital is of the same name, with a population of less than 20,000, while a total of around 260,000 live in the province.

The province is particularly popular with Thai visitors looking for waterfalls, camping, rafting and cooler mountain scenery close to Bangkok.

How I Discovered Nakhon Nayok – April 2022

I’d been living in Minburi for a few months and had become good friends with Taew, who was the owner of the bar/restaurant I used as a regular customer. She was great company and had taken me out for several trips in her car to places I hadn’t even heard of, let alone planned a visit to.

We’d been to Chachoengsao, as well as several rides to countryside cafes before Taew had to open her establishments at 4 pm each day. It had been a while, but she suggested we head somewhere slightly further afield on a day when she decided to close because the sale of alcohol was not permitted. 

There are several such days each year in Thailand, so it's worth checking the calendar before travelling if you enjoy a drink with your evening meal.

Taking advantage of having additional time, it suited me fine when Taew suggested Nakhon Nayok, but what was there? After travelling for around 90 minutes, we arrived at Wat Maneewong, a temple best known for its spectacular Naga Cave filled with countless serpent sculptures and dramatic lighting. It was certainly different, although I prefer something more traditional.

Wat Maneewong

We then continued around the edge of Nakhon Nayok town to stop for coffee at Klang Na Café, just north of it, which was a pretty enough place with a covered decking area and some salas – small open-sided thatched huts. Once refreshed, we headed towards the stunning scenery in the direction of Khao Yai.

We left the main road and began climbing towards the impressive Khun Dan Prakan Chon Dam. At our level were several small resorts scattered around, and youths enjoying water sports. We continued up the winding road built into the side of the mountain to reach the car park at the top of the dam.

Huts offered boat rides in the reservoir, but we opted to hire a golf buggy that allowed us to travel across the top of the dam to a turning circle at the far end. We stopped to take photos as we went, as well as visiting the small temple built into the hillside.

It felt like being on another planet with no traffic noise, clean skies, hot temperatures and being able to look across the landscape for miles around. According to information displayed at the site, King Rama IX enjoyed visiting the area to relax and pursue his passion for birdwatching.

We went back in the same direction and turned left. Taew wanted to show me some rapids and waterfalls that were a great attraction as a getaway for Thais. Unfortunately, because we visited near the end of the dry season, there was very little water flowing around Khun Lek's Garden.

A Return and an Embarrassing Lesson Learned

The pair of us would return a few months later with Jaeb and Owd, friends and regulars at Taew’s restaurant, along with their kids. By then there was water, and the place was packed on another public holiday. 

We had stopped at some of the many stalls by the side of the 3049 Highway to buy succulent roast chickens cooked on rotating spits, as well as other ingredients to go towards our picnic. It was the first time I ate somtam, the spicy Thai papaya salad, and I didn’t mind a small portion to go with the chicken. My theory was that I was paying for it, so I might as well try it.

Determined not to miss out, despite being a non-swimmer, vanity got the better of me as I got in the water and inside the large rubber ring with Owd and the kids, nearly causing a huge accident. It was a lesson in knowing your limits. My reward was a grazed back from the stone bank, and lots of embarrassment and having to apologise for my foolishness.

We returned to the area again over the New Year period a few years later, this time on a camping trip, which was something else not to my liking. I enjoy a drink, good food and socialising as much as anyone, but Thais tend to do it all day when on holiday. That’s no good to me. I spent much of the time in my tent or going for walks, not preparing properly or taking enough things to keep me occupied.

Other Visits

By that time, we had returned on a couple of occasions. The first was when my mate Jarvo was visiting us on his way home from Australia. Taew took us to the dam up the mountain, where he was particularly impressed by the scenery.

When my brother, his wife, and son came to Thailand for a three-week break in July 2023, we took them to the dam and showed them around the province, stopping at the waterfall for food and drinks on a relaxing day out.

A Great Stop on the Way Home

After every visit to Nakhon Nayok, we would stop on the way to Minburi at Aden Farm, located just off the 305 road to Pathum Thani, north of Bangkok. On our first visit, lots of colourful umbrellas hung from overhead wires around the garden, making an instant impression.

It’s a fantastic place to spend a bit of time, especially with kids, or even those young at heart in tow, with its small farm including goats and pigs. There are canoe rides to be had around the lake, and fish to feed, as well as the usual eating and drinking options.

It hosts special event days, with one of our calls coinciding with lots of fairground stalls where those aiming well with darts and rifles win prizes. That was the trip including my calamity on the water, so I shied away from anything else remotely daring.

Aden Farm

Summing Up

Nakhon Nayok may not be one of Thailand's best-known destinations, but that's part of its charm. Whether you're looking for mountain scenery, impressive temples, waterfalls or simply a relaxing day away from Bangkok, it's well worth considering.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.