Hidden Bangkok by Boat, Train and on Foot

It was becoming a bit of a regular arrangement since I had moved to Minburi in the eastern suburbs of Bangkok. My pal Steve and I would meet by the market on a Thursday morning and head into the city to explore, discovering parts we'd never seen before. On this occasion, we would be travelling by train and boat, visiting museums and walking in places that very few tourists go.

Artwork by the Saen Seap Canal

Inspiration

Something that I’m frequently asked is how I find out about places and get the inspiration to put days out together. Well, the answer is research, reading online articles, following social media, and watching YouTube channels such as the superb Bangkok Pat, who produces outstanding videos covering the capital.

They are interesting and educational, provide opinions, and are well-researched and factual. I watch them avidly and make a note of places I want to visit, as well as carrying out lots of planning using Google Maps to put together days by public transport.

Into Town on the Saen Seap Canal Boat

As was often the case, we took the number 27 bus to Bangkapi to catch the canal boat into the city. This costs around 21 THB (£0.45) and is far quicker than being stuck in traffic, with the bonus of seeing everyday life along the banks of the waterway.

We alighted at Chitlom Pier and walked back to the area where the Makkasan Factory belonging to the State Railway of Thailand is located to visit the Thai Labor Museum. It looked like it was shut, but we followed the advice on Pat’s video, where a man let us in.

A Couple of Quality Museums

The museum has lots of fascinating exhibits charting the fight of workers, and some of their underground movements. While our guide did not speak English, we got by as some labelling was written in it. It was well worth the effort to visit. While there is free admission, we felt it right to leave a donation towards its upkeep.

We went walking over a track that led into the train factory that would play a part later in the day. It was hot, and while we enjoyed exploring, we bartered with a tuk-tuk driver and agreed on a fare to take us to Jim Thompson’s House.

This was a name that conjured up tales of tuk-tuk and taxi drivers promising tourists to take them there, only to end up in a shop where the driver earned a commission. I think that’s why I’d stayed away in the past. However, research and videos convinced us to give it a look.

Inside Jim Thompson's House

I’m so glad that we did. The admission fee was around 200 THB and included a guided tour. The young lady who led us around was charm personified, speaking beautiful, soft English and explaining everything we needed to know, while answering any questions.

The wooden museum by the canal houses the art collection of American businessman and architect Jim Thompson, also known as the ‘Silk King’, in the home that he built. His disappearance with still no explanation adds to the aura of the place. It was certainly worth going, and somewhere I would later recommend to my visiting friends.

Walking Through a True Railway Community

I mentioned a railway track a few paragraphs earlier. Well, that was the next part of our adventure after taking a bus back to Petchabuhn Road, and we cut through to the canal. Passing the pretty Wat Makkasan on the opposite bank, we found the path to the railway.

The track is hardly used, but it was formerly used by trains from the factory to the Khlong Toei docks. Houses are close to the rails on either side, with life going on without any real attention to their proximity. Locals greeted us as we walked towards Sukhumvit Road, where, remarkably, the traffic occasionally stops for a train.

The Central Bangkok Railway Settlement

Steve and I had seen videos of foreigners being welcomed and joining in impromptu parties on the tracks with those living there. The Chalerm Maha Nakhon Expressway towers over the settlement, while the shelter it provides also has homes, vehicles, restaurants, and even a Muay Thai boxing ring and a snooker table. It once had a strip of bars nicknamed Soi 0.

Many of you might have noticed the railway when walking along Sukhumvit Road with its small station building still in situ. Our exercise continued as my mate wanted to show me the Atlanta Hotel on Soi 2, where he stayed on his first visit, with the famous accommodation used as a location in The Serpent, the true-crime television series.

Time to Relax

It was time for a drink and to think about where to visit next. While there is lots to commend regarding that part of town when it comes to relaxing during the day, with its promotional offers, we wanted something a bit more, especially with our means of getting home to consider.

We caught the BTS Skytrain at Nana to the river at Saphan Taksin. From there, it was a ten-minute walk that took us past the Shangri-La Bangkok Hotel to a small bar and restaurant I had visited with a friend before, after reading about it.

Beer with a View at Jack's Bar

Jack’s Bar is built right on the river on platforms jutting over the water. It sold beer and decent local food at the right price without the temptation to cash in on its location. The view was perfect, as was our timing. We hung around and enjoyed the ambience before leaving, as the sun was setting and the place was getting busy.

An Authentic Journey Home

Heading to Charoen Krung Road, we caught a bus to Hua Lamphong station, having time to buy our tickets and get on board the final service of the day heading towards Chachoengsao. We would be alighting at Lat Krabang, a journey of nearly an hour that cost 6 THB.

The train went over level crossings in the centre of the city as huge lines of traffic were held up. There was little wonder that the new station at Bang Sue for long-distance services would be so popular with those trying to get around in this part of the capital.

There might be quicker ways of travelling, but with the windows wound down instead of any air-conditioning, this was the proper way to do things. The sights of markets by the rails and people's houses, along with the smells and sounds, added to the journey, as the sky turned from pink to nightfall and the buildings were illuminated.

We caught a songthaew back to Minburi from Lat Krabang, another low-cost option and a way of living like Thais. The fare was 9 THB, and the ride was slow going along the busy Rom Klao Road. Not that we cared. We had enjoyed a brilliant day, rounded off with drinks with Taew at her ‘Brothers and Sisters’ establishment.

The Train Journey at Dusk

Open Your Minds

Our day out summed up everything I enjoy about exploring Bangkok. With a little research, a willingness to use public transport and an open mind, it's possible to discover places that many visitors never even realise exist.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.