Discovering Nakhon Sawan and Uthai Thani

While Thailand has many famous attractions and cities waiting to be visited, plenty of hidden gems go under the radar. Whether visitors have limited time or simply overlook them, many provincial destinations rarely make travel itineraries. With time on my hands and a desire to explore somewhere new, Nakhon Sawan and Uthai Thani fitted the bill perfectly.

Wat Sanggat Rattana Khiri, Uthai Thani

Why Choose Nakhon Sawan and Uthai Thani?

Some expats say provincial Thai towns and cities are all the same. I disagree, as I think each has its own characteristics, be it food, culture, sights, or landscapes. I should add that I find most places interesting and get satisfaction from walking the streets and seeing what I discover. We’re all different.

Having football as a hobby and wanting to watch games in as many different places as possible gives me a greater incentive to get out and about. To me, football is far more than a match. It’s about where it’s played and the journey, meeting new people, and having fun even if I see a poor game.

Uthai Thani FC were hosting Nakhonratchasima FC in the quarter-final of the Thai FA Cup in February 2022. I hadn’t been before, so I wanted to put that right. But how would I get there? Information about buses to Uthai Thani was sparse, so I decided to take a train to Nakhon Sawan, spend a night there and then stay in Uthai Thani after the match.

The Nan and Ping Rivers meet in Nakhon Sawan to form the Chao Phraya River

The Joys of Train Travel

I never tire of train travel. It allows you to get up to stretch, relax, and look out of the window at the views. The familiar surroundings of Ayutthaya came and went before Lopburi grabbed my attention, with the level crossing through the centre of town, the ancient ruins, and wild monkeys running around. I would certainly head there in the future.

The station at Nakhon Sawan was a long way out of town, several km across the Chao Phraya River. It required a songthaew to get to where I wanted to go. There was one waiting when we arrived, and I was soon out and walking to my hotel. My accommodation was very basic, but it was only for one night.

As ever, I was keen to get out and about and see what this new place had to offer. Nakhon Sawan town has a population of nearly 90,000 and has the large Chai Krui Lake in its centre. It is where the Chao Phraya River begins at the meeting of the Ping and the Nan.

Wat Khao Khop and the tower from Chai Krui Lake

Discovering Nakhon Sawan

Some pandemic restrictions were still in place, meaning that some of the businesses listed on Google Maps had disappeared. I had a good walk along the river and saw the impressive artwork by Klong Yuan Chuanrak. 

The people seemed a friendly bunch. I stopped for a coffee and then headed back for a siesta via the pretty Wat Nakhon Sawan Phra Aram Luang. I had considered going up the hill to Wat Khao Khop and the tower overlooking the city, but I was quoted a fare I thought was expensive.

I was greeted by heavy rainfall after my siesta, but I was not to be deterred. I walked around the lake eager to find a bar that I’d earmarked. The rain continued, so I was delighted to see the bar and be greeted at the door by staff raising an umbrella over me. I was into my second drink when I realised I was in the wrong place!

That explained why no band was playing. I soon put things right, walking a couple of minutes and finding a seat in Analog Bar, where I spent the rest of the evening eating and drinking. I found it remarkable to find somewhere relatively busy with a warm-up and then a main act on a Tuesday night.

Tuesday Night in Nakhon Sawan

On to Uthai Thani

My trainers were still wet from the Tuesday evening deluge when I awoke in my room in the basic hotel. I had obviously had a good walk as I soon relented on my way to the bus terminal and jumped aboard a tuk-tuk instead.

I found the correct desk and paid for my 30 THB (£0.70) ticket for the ride to Uthai Thani, which was to take just over an hour. I quickly grabbed some provisions at 7/11 and got a seat in the minivan behind a couple of monks, one of whom was especially friendly and spoke a little English.

I’d been told that it was a religious day because of a Buddhist celebration and that bars would be closed. I was still hopeful, despite the religious brothers confirming the fact to me. Surely, I’d find somewhere to enjoy a drink? I arrived a little early to check into my excellent room at S2@Uthai, but the smiling staff soon had everything sorted.

My YouTube Video of the Adventure

Discovering Another New Destination

It was time to head out for more exercise. The area along the banks of the Sakae Krang River was interesting. I particularly liked the street lampstands being decorated with elephants. From there, I continued to Wat Sanggat Rattana Khiri. This consisted of two temples - one at street level and the other one overlooking the town up a long set of steps. 

The view at the top was well worth the effort, as were the various buildings and places of worship. I headed back to my hotel via a convoluted route down the hill and then around the main road. A siesta was most welcome before I headed in the direction of the local Province Stadium for the 6 pm kick-off.

Arriving reasonably early, just in case there was a huge crowd, I was delighted to see that the fans' area outside the stand had been missed off the memo about the booze ban. I grabbed a couple of beers and snacks. An excellent atmosphere was building as cup fever had reached town.

Uthai Thani's Elephant Lampstands

My Evening’s Entertainment

I watched an enjoyable game, with the visitors snatching a late winner through Charlie Clough, an Englishman with whom I would be mates with when he played for Sisaket United a few years later. On leaving, I should have had a couple of beers at the stadium. 

Nomto Café music bar over the road was closed, so I decided to head back into town looking for a rare sign of life. I couldn't find a bar or shop serving beer, though I thought I’d struck lucky when I spotted a man with a drink watching the Thailand Under 21 side on TV outside a shop by the bus station.

 
The forthright woman inside gave me a proper dressing down when I asked for a beer! Back on the main road, I saw a group in Uthai Thani shirts. I’d waved and said hello on the way to the stadium, and they pointed to the turn-off I needed when they went ahead on their motorbikes. They remembered and beckoned to me.

They said they could get beer if I fancied one, so I gave them some cash to get some cans. An educational couple of beers followed with my new friends as we chatted about football, Thailand and what had brought me to Uthai Thani. After a couple of drinks, I headed back to the hotel for a proper night's sleep. 

Uthai Thani Locals Getting in the Mood Before the Football

Problems Overcome for the Journey Home

The following morning, I was more than a little concerned to find that I would not reach Nakhon Sawan in time for my train on which I’d booked a ticket back home. Buses weren’t as frequent as I believed. Not to worry. I’d have to buy a new ticket and get home later. No harm done. 

I was considering all options when I asked where the minibus at the station, just about to leave, was going. It was my lucky day as they told me Bangkok. It was a bit cramped, but we stopped at the services at Saraburi for a stretch. I was deposited at Mo Chit, from where I caught a bus home via Bangkapi, alighting at home to be greeted by another rainstorm.

My trip to Nakhon Sawan and Uthai Thani turned out to be everything I'd hoped for. There were a few unexpected challenges along the way, but they all became part of the adventure. I discovered two interesting provincial cities, watched an enjoyable cup tie, and met plenty of friendly people. For me, that's what travelling in Thailand is all about.

If you enjoyed this story, feel free to check out my YouTube Channel, where I share videos about everyday life in Thailand, local football, and travel across the country.

Thanks for reading.